Today while picking up more stuff for the TC3 project I decided to see what was in stock at my LHS for my TC4. Found a bumper setup that I was reading about on this thread (from 2013 haha) and decided to give it a shot.
I wanted something wider so I could save my front arms and offer more protection. NTC3 bumper pads, NTC3 bumper, and a RPM NTC3 high impact bumper. It seems to do the trick and should work well. RPM bumper with NTC3 bumper pads Assembled with the NTC3 bumper Shot from below Nice and snug under the body Part #s. Today while picking up more stuff for the TC3 project I decided to see what was in stock at my LHS for my TC4. Found a bumper setup that I was reading about on this thread (from 2013 haha) and decided to give it a shot.
The TC3's race-proven shaft-drive design captured many national and international championships in the past few years, and has spawned numerous imitations. Just slap on a brushless motor setup and lipos and you'll have a worthy race machine that can take on the big boys. A really great car. Team Associated TC4 Touring Car 4WD RTR.
I wanted something wider so I could save my front arms and offer more protection. NTC3 bumper pads, NTC3 bumper, and a RPM NTC3 high impact bumper. It seems to do the trick and should work well. RPM bumper with NTC3 bumper pads Assembled with the NTC3 bumper Shot from below Nice and snug under the body Part #s So all of this bolts on a TC-4 type chassis?
The Assc#2232 and the RPM80272 appear to be the same basic piece used with the 2227 foam. RE: Achieving desired droop and shock length being 'not long enough.' Keep in mind this will change as you add shims under the front and rear blocks.
Some setups will have no shims and some will have a '#2' in rear or '#1' in front(the fingers on the shim indicate the #). Also the club racer blocks seem to have '#2' or some thickness added to them.
The alum blocks are not the same height as the club racer I believe. Someone may be able to verify. Some setups specify 'club racer' under the suspension block notes. Compare that to the alum blocks and notice you may need to shim up the block to match the thickness/arm pin height. So as you add shims under the block the arm gets closer to the shock and lets you have more droop. In theory as you raise the blocks the grip should reduce on that end.
So rear, that adds steering and rotation by reducing the rear grip and front it reduces steering by taking away the grip. Lowering the blocks will have the reverse effect. AS you do this. I would suggest you shim the camber link so that it keeps the same angle as it did before your change if you liked it. If you're swimming in the deep end looking for a fresh start, shimming the camber links so they are parallel to the dog bone is a good place to keep it.
Be a champion this weekend kids! Craig Drescher: 2005 Reedy Race Champion with the TC4.
Today while picking up more stuff for the TC3 project I decided to see what was in stock at my LHS for my TC4. Found a bumper setup that I was reading about on this thread (from 2013 haha) and decided to give it a shot. I wanted something wider so I could save my front arms and offer more protection.
NTC3 bumper pads, NTC3 bumper, and a RPM NTC3 high impact bumper. It seems to do the trick and should work well.
That bumper arrangement is absolutely perfect! I added a wider and harder bumper to my TC4.
It covers the front wheels whereas the stock bumper doesn't. As a newbie, there is no doubt in my mind that the added protection on the front wheels has saved me numerous front end parts purchases. Mine is a bit more simple, but I really like that full wheel width coverage.
Thanks for posting the setup! Also the club racer blocks seem to have '#2' or some thickness added to them. The alum blocks are not the same height as the club racer I believe. Someone may be able to verify. Some setups specify 'club racer' under the suspension block notes. Thanks for the info!
My club kit came new with no shims, front or rear, at all under the suspension blocks. I was shocked to see that especially since the manual clearly shows the installation of two shims under each block front and rear. After my horrible tuning failure last week, I've decided that it is in my best interest to pretty much give up on any tuning and simply focus on driving. I wasted 4.5 hours undoing the Battman Kinnard VTA setup and troubleshooting those damn YR shocks/springs that I put on my car. I'm going back to the stock club setup, leaving the YR shocks/AE springs on, and at the very most putting the swaybars (black F&R) back on. Gotta be a better driver first and that means with any setup. Stupid question, but how do I check the ball diff and what should I be looking for?
All cars that I've driven before had gear diffs. It's not stupid because it's very important to know. Hold one rear tire down and grab the spur gear at the same time (use one hand to hold both), then lift up the other rear tire and see if it turns. If it does, you have a problem. If not then let go of everything and with all tires off the ground and car on a stand, turn one back wheel and see that the other turns in the opposite direction and all is working smoothly.
I suggest a Google search since there is some better info out there for this. (If I've misspoken on any of my directions, hopefully some of the pros will correct me.). It's not stupid because it's very important to know. Hold one rear tire down and grab the spur gear at the same time (use one hand to hold both), then lift up the other rear tire and see if it turns. If it does, you have a problem. If not then let go of everything and with all tires off the ground and car on a stand, turn one back wheel and see that the other turns in the opposite direction and all is working smoothly. I suggest a Google search since there is some better info out there for this.
(If I've misspoken on any of my directions, hopefully some of the pros will correct me.)To add to this, even a properly set up diff will slip a bit if you put enough pressure on it. It's a bit of an art form knowing the feel. My club kit came new with no shims, front or rear, at all under the suspension blocks. I was shocked to see that especially since the manual clearly shows the installation of two shims under each block front and rear. QUOTE The club comes with the shims molded into the blocks.So, the amount of shims that are molded in are equivalent to the two shims that are shown being installed in the manual? I'll have to measure them I guess. That is a very strange thing for them to do plus that means that there is a part number for the club blocks and regular blocks plus separate shims.
I don't recall seeing that number anywhere so I'll have to pay more attention for that.